Yvonne J. Markowitz – George Frederick Kunz

dcgiaorg — Fri, 20 Apr 2012 18:29:44 +0000

It was a pleasure having Yvonne J. Markowitz provide the chapter with in-depth information on the relationship between George Frederick Kunz and Tiffany as well as his other accomplishments.

Yvonne is the Rita J. & Susan B. Kaplan Curator of Jewelry in the David & Roberta Logie Department of Textile and Fashion Arts, Museum of Fine Arts, Boston http://www.mfa.org/collections/jewelry . Yvonne was much more informative than this post can possibly be, so if you missed it, you missed a very great presentation.

George Frederick Kunz was born in New York City, USA, and began an interest in minerals at a very young age.

In a series of published interviews with Marie Beynon Ray of The Saturday Evening Post, written in the late 1920s, Kunz recalled a particularly exciting visit to P.T. Barnum’s American Museum on Ann Street & Broadway in NYC. The year was 1865 and Kunz was nearly ten. Among the various oddities to be seen and experienced was a mineral display – the collection of a Mr. Bailey. Young Kunz was hooked—he wanted to begin his own collection.

Mid-19th century, NYC Public works projects and Hoboken, NJ provided a steady supply of rich and varied mineral deposits up to the surface. So, in many respects, the extraordinary geology of the area was Kunz’s backyard.

Kunz later stated “…all the pioneering engineering projects of the area offered virgin soil to the collector of minerals.”

By his mid-teens, Kunz was a serious collector of minerals. Some were acquired during his many excursions, others the result of exchanges with fellow collectors. His correspondence both in America and abroad was extensive, as evidenced by the extraordinary number of surviving letters. Throughout his life, it was Kunz’s habit to build a collection, sell it at a profit, and then use the funds to form yet another collection. Some collections were general, as in the assemblage of 4,000 minerals sold to the University of Minnesota in 1876 for $400. Afterwards, he sold another collection to the Polytechnic Institute in Indiana, a third to Amherst College in MA, and another to the State Museum in Albany, NY. The four collections together numbered 20,000 mineral specimens. One collection—that of meteorites—was a personal favorite and added to over the course of his lifetime.

Kunz attended Cooper Union but did not finish and did not attend college. Nonetheless, he taught himself mineralogy from books and field research. This expertise landed him a job with Tiffany & Co., and his knowledge and enthusiasm served him and Tiffany & Co., well providing gem acquisitions used in Tiffany jewelry. Kunz also assembled private mineral collections, one being the Morgan-Tiffany collection of gems in the American Museum of Natural History.

As a foremost gemologist and mineralogist, he was amazingly prolific in writing over 300 books and articles on a diverse variety of titles. While at Tiffany’s, George Kunz created a set of books for Tiffany and Co. to give each year to its customers: Natal Stones, Sentiments, and Superstitions associated with Precious Stones.

Kunz began his writing career in the early 1880s, with articles appearing regularly in the Transactions of the N.Y. Academy of Sciences, the American Journal of Science and Popular Science. By 1890, he had completed his first book entitled, Gems and Precious Stones of North America. That same year, he traveled to Mexico, visiting Queretaro where the only gem systematically mined was the fire opal, a variety of opal that shows flashes of red, orange, yellow, and green. Kunz visited the mines as well as the cutting facilities, noting that the stones cost from $1 to $1000, depending on size and quality. Kunz was very attracted to the stone and returned to New York with a cache of cabochons, some of which were probably incorporated into this ornament known as the “Aztec” collar. Designer Paulding Farnham was also fond of the stone and cognizant of its source, drawing on motifs from the ancient Americas for the necklace’s design. Highlighting the warm glow of the gold and opals in this ornament are diamonds, rubies, tourmalines, peridots, and zircons—another Kunz favorite. The collar was exhibited at 1900 Paris Exposition and is now part of the Tiffany Archives collection.

Tiffany jewelry at exposition, was a great success, thanks to the design efforts of Paulding Farnham and the extraordinary gems acquired by Kunz. Probably one of the most dramatic suites was this diamond and aquamarine parure.

Kunz’s in-depth knowledge of American gem materials was furthered by his activities on behalf of the U.S. Geological Survey. The USGS, an arm of the Dept. of Interior, was established in 1879. Part of its mission was to examine and report on the geological structure, mineral sources, and products of the national domain. The first director of the bureau was Clarence King, the geologist credited with exposing the diamond hoax and an innovator in surveying techniques. Both Kunz and Tiffany must have been thrilled when Kunz was appointed special agent to the USGS in 1883. The position gave Kunz (and Tiffany & Co.) access to sites, statistics, and commercial gem-related operations within and outside the U.S. It also allowed Kunz to expand his network of contacts among geologists, mining engineers, government officials, and businessmen. Each year Kunz summarized all he had learned throughout the year in the Survey’s annual report.

Summary by Charlie Marts Period

Photos from Slide SHow provided by Yvonne J. Markowitz

Pictures of speaker and members by Melanie Marts, GG

Jewelry Sales Opportunity at Saks

dcgiaorg — Wed, 18 Apr 2012 22:07:33 +0000

Saks is looking to fill a Fine Jewelry Sales Associate position in McLean, VA (Tysons Galleria). They are looking for someone with 3+ years experience and they must have fine jewelry experience.

Paige Walls, is the Recruiting Manager. If interested Email your resume to: paige_walls@s5a.com

Alicia Oltuski – Precious Objects

dcgiaorg — Sun, 25 Mar 2012 22:49:50 +0000

Alicia Oltuski’s presentation was entertaining and illuminating, it offered an insider’s look at the history, business, and society behind the world’s most coveted natural resource, providing an unforgettable introduction to the New York Diamond District.

From New York and the international diamond world via her Grandfather and Father’s old school diamond district dealings, Alicia shared a common passion for jewelry and precious objects.

The diamond business provided a patterned background for what started as a memoir for Alicia’s Father. Alicia took us on a journey as she began working with her father, in order to collect research for her book. From her first day, passing through 3 doors, each one more secure than the last, in order to enter her fathers domain. Alicia’s first journey down Forty-Seventh Street with a chest pack full of jewelry, picking up and dropping off items for her father.

Old School Dealers are secretive and have a personal connection to both the other diamond dealers and the stones they trade. Secrecy and precautions are necessary when you carry your stock in trade on your person from place to place. Diamonds that were often loaned on consignment to jewelers and other dealers. No money changing hands until the stone was sold or returned un-sold. This requires a level of trust and knowledge of the people you are dealing with that is missing on the internet.

Chronicling the birth of the diamond trade with De Beers “A Diamond is for ever!”, the NY Diamond Dealers Club, the Rapaport Diamond Report, Blood Diamonds and Fair Trade Diamonds, along with family history of her Grandfather and Father in the industry. These stories and more are fully exposed in Alicia’s book “Precious Objects”.

The book is a Barnes and Noble Discover Great New Writers selection. Alicia Oltuski’s
work has appeared or is forthcoming on NPR’s Berlin Stories, in the Financial Times,
W Magazine, The Faster Times, The Bulletin in Philadelphia, and other publications.

Visit Alicia Oltuski’s website at www.aliciaoltuski.com

While men are prominent in the Diamond Dealing portion of the industry (think loose stones), Women are present in retail, design and office as they appear more interested in the finished jewelry, rather than the loose stones.

DCGIA Thanks Alicia for sharing with us and with the rest of the world our Passion for Precious Objects!

DCGIA Members

Summary & Photos by Charlie Marts

Tucson Panel Report – Friends of DDI

dcgiaorg — Wed, 29 Feb 2012 22:37:29 +0000

Patricia Syvrud founder and president of Joia Consulting, LLC, was also in Tucson heading up program development for the Friends of The Diamond Development Initiative (DDI).

She provided the chapter members with an introduction to Artisanal Mining and Friends of DDI.

Artisanal Mining is small-scale mining involving the extraction of minerals with the simplest of tools, on a subsistence level. More than a million African artisanal diamond diggers and their families live and work in absolute poverty, outside the formal economy, in countries struggling to recover from the ravages of war.

DDI aims to replicate the success of the Kimberley Process, in the cause to eliminate conflict diamonds. Where Kimberley is a regulatory system, DDI will be a comprehensive, long-term partnership for development.

DDI promotes environmentally sustainable mining practices and seeks to rehabilitate exhausted diamond fields.

DDI is piloting a system to register artisanal diamond miners and track their production up to the point of export. The system meets KPCS standards.

DDI is field testing an ethical certification system for diamonds that originate from artisanal mining areas. The overarching objective is to develop a system that actually works in the vastly informal context of artisanal diamond mining; can be independently verified; and results in meaningful benefits for artisanal miners as well as consumers.

Visit the project website at: http://www.ddidrc.org/eng/index.php

The Friends of DDI program will allow jewelry retailers, designers, manufacturers, and suppliers to support DDI’s work on the ground in mining communities, and demonstrate to their customers that the industry is making a positive impact on the lives of the people who mine diamonds by artisanal methods.

To learn more and get involved visit http://www.ddiglobal.org/pages/friends-of-ddii.php

Summary by Charles Marts

Tucson Panel Report

dcgiaorg — Tue, 28 Feb 2012 23:27:07 +0000

Since the Tucson Gem show is a “must-view” event, DCGIA devotes each February meeting to a “Tucson Report” where Chapter members who attended could exhibit items they purchased for “show and tell” and discuss prices, new trends, and impressions with everyone at the meeting. A BIG Thank You to All the Members for sharing with us!

Tucson Panel - Kusam, Courtland, Lynn & Lois

Bobby Mann DCGIA President opened the panel by providing a Handout - The Tucson Experience a history of the Tucson Gem Show and what you can expect to see there.

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Lois Berger GG, NAJA, DCGIA’s resident pearl expert discussed all things “Cultured Pearls”.

Lois’ pearl report provides indepth wholesale pricing and pearl industry news each year.

Lois provided a Power Point presentation AGTA Show Pearl Report 2012 along with a PDF document Tucson Pearl Report 2012 covering the Highlights of what she saw and prices for the wholesale market place.

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Kusam Malhotra Owner of K & K International in Vienna, VA. was a vendor at the 2012 Tucson International Gemshow. Displaying Wholesale Natural Colored Gemstones:
Alexandrite, Colored Diamonds, Aquamarine, Beryl, Red Beryl, Chrysoberyl, Kunzite, Diamond, Garnet, , Morganite, Turquoise, Zircon and Extra Fine Gem Quality Rubies.
Real Fine sapphires of All Colors. Real and Exotic Stones from A – Z.
Tourmalines of all Colors and from All Regions of the Globe.
Kusam shared some beautiful Gems from the show. Although there is a lot of treated colored stones out there, Natural “untreated” stones are available. Always get a certificate from a LAB.

Because of the HIGH Prices current in the market, a lot of retail establishments are selling Old Inventory. There is still a market for FINE Gemstones, as people are still willing to pay the price for quality and beauty.

Some of Kusam’s AWE Insiring Gems will be provided below: SOON

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Lynn Karson a self proclaimed NOVICE working towards her GG, provided her first impressions of Tucson on her maiden trip.

Lynn has family in Tucson in the jewelry design business so was able to visit both the show and her family. She was at the show for 4 days with her 2 brothers, and had the opportunity to meet up with other DCGIA Associates while there.

Lynn’s 1st time was awe inspiring since she saw both Lois Berger and Kusam Malhotra at the show. In addition to seeing some beautiful black cats eye and other gems, she saw all the amazing Spectrum Award winning Jewelry Designs and the Cutting Edge Gem Cutting Award winners up close and personal.

Lynn was amazed by all the unconventional items available at the show, meteorites, fossils stingray leather jewelry with silver and gemstones, and faceted cultured pearls. Lois Berger stated that facet pearls is not a new thing, they just are not widely available.

Lynn enjoyed the wide variety of seminars that were available for learning from gems to business, she found Social Media for Jewelers informative as 90% of Brides use Facebook and leave comments, which can bring more customers into your store.

Lynn also enjoyed watching and listening to the other people attending the show as they moved from booth to booth.

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Courtland Lee is DCGIA’s resident Geologist and Miner, a gemologist with a MS in Economic Geology from the University of Arizona (1967). After early work in western metals exploration, and a tour of duty in the U.S. Navy, Courtland went to work in Washington, D.C. on Federal Mineral programs. While there he worked on Capitol Hill for the Mines and Mining Committee. Courtland was instrumental in getting petrified dinosaur bone designated as the official Maryland state gemstone. Courtland Lee was a vendor at the 2012 Tucson International Gemshow.

Courtland displayed beads made from the Maryland State Gemstone, the Patuxent River Stone. He also had beads from petrified dinosaur teeth. Courtland’s main focus is Mineral Specimens, he shared a few items:

Turquoise necklace purchased in Tucson 2012 Hubei Province of china called Zhu Shau Turquoise. Like old Arizona spider web variety once considered the best. Note turquoise fills dissolved pyrite in copper deposits.

Pennsylvania williamsite { George F Kunz} carved mountain in mainland China. Sinkankas valued this material more valuable than many jades.

More spider web turquoise Zhu Shu. Good value this year. Natural from repudiable dealer.

is old Maryland/Penna native copper mined pre civil war and again by the Confederates up until Antietam . Bright native copper against a white guartz and calcite background is a classic Mid Atlantic gem. See appalachian gem trails.

The Tuscon Gem Report meeting is always well attended by those of us that missed actually being there!

DCGIA Associates

Summary By Charlie Marts

Pictures By Melanie Marts GG

In Memory of John Stephen Weschler, SR.

dcgiaorg — Thu, 02 Feb 2012 23:07:50 +0000

John Stephen Weschler, SR. of Weschler’s Auctioneers and Appraisers, died On Sunday, December 11, 2011.
Beloved husband of Jill Weschler; father of Johnny, Jr., Tiffany, and Jennie Weschler.
Also survived by his siblings, Janet, Billy, Jimmy, Lisa, and Joey.

Beyond Newark: Jewelry That Inspired America’s Manufacturers – Ulysses Grant Dietz

dcgiaorg — Thu, 26 Jan 2012 00:56:37 +0000

Mr. Ulysses Grant Dietz is a specialist in American material culture and decorative arts, covering the 1600s through the present. Mr. Dietz does not let an object’s superficial qualities obscure its significance. Jewelry for instance is most important for its art form or its place in a design movement. Not for its being drowned out by stones that practically scream and sparkle their magnificence.

The Glitter & The Gold: Fashioning America’s Jewelry by Ulysses Grant Dietz
This book is an exploration of jewelry produced in Newark, New Jersey – America’s fine jewelry capital – from 1850 to 1950. The book contains never before published documents concerning this little known jewelry empire.

If you made it to this lecture Mr. Dietz was most informative in sharing Newark as a Jewelry Mecca. If you missed it, buy the book or visit Newark and see what is left!

Mr. Dietz provided a PowerPoint presentation showing high end jewelry pieces and the Newark version created for mass consumption. While the high end piece might be large in size the Newark piece was always on the order of a 1/4 scale version. The pictures show the high end piece and then the Newark version inset to give perspective between the two pieces. The high end piece selling at thousands of dollars, compared to the Newark version
often at $75 to $100.

Beyond Newark – Jewelry that Inspired America’s Manufacturers

Prior to the 1800s and the rise of Newark Jewelry Manufacturing, Jewelry was for Aristocrats and Millionaires. Newark’s rise in jewelry manufacturing made jewelry available to the middle class housewife.

German jewelry artisans from 1840 to 1920 immigrated to the US and settled in Newark, they became the dominant manufacturers. Most Newark manufacturers cranked out pieces for retailers. The first Newark manufacturer’s Hallmark does not appear until 1896.

In the 1900s Tiffany & Company made all their silver in a Newark manufacturing plant. T&C (along with many other high end retailers) purchased many low cost pieces of jewelry from other Newark manufacturers to supplement their high end designs.

The idea was that a $2K – $3K designer piece brings traffic into the store, but the hope was to have middle class buyers leave with a $200 or $300 item.

This Newark jewelry often had a Tiffany & Company hallmark, but would sometimes have only the Newark manufacturer’s hallmark or both hallmarks stamped. Skinner’s Auction Guide will often provide a good history on a piece, providing both the retail sellers and manufacturers pedigree. While the high end retailers would rather not mention it.

Newark jewelry was known for platinum, gold and colored stones during the 1900s, but manufacturing came to an end in 1997, due to economic and over seas pressure.

Visit the Newark Museum Website: http://www.newarkmuseum.org

The DCGIA Chapter thanks Mr. Dietz for a wonderful lecture that started our year with great attendance and enjoyment for everyone present.

Bobby Mann & Ulysses Grant Dietz

Meeting Summary by Charlie Marts

Pictures by Melanie Marts – GG

PowerPoint Presentation provided by Mr. Dietz

DCGIA MENTORING PROGRAM

dcgiaorg — Sun, 01 Jan 2012 19:09:09 +0000

Mission: The Program is designed to help current and recent graduates of GIA strengthen and refine the vital and highly specialized skills they need to succeed in the gem & jewelry industry. DCGIA Mentoring Program Outline

Every DCGIA Mentee is partnered with a professional who makes themselves’ available to answer questions, lend support, and see you through your studies. DCGIA MENTEE PROFILE FORM You can meet, call or email, knowing help is available when you need it. The program encourages lifelong relationships, provides opportunities for continuing education and fosters networking with other gem and jewelry professionals.

Any of DCGIA’s learned professionals interested in becoming a Mentor and sharing their passion for the trade are welcome to volunteer. DCGIA Mentor Sign Up Form

2011 in review

dcgiaorg — Sun, 01 Jan 2012 16:47:07 +0000

HAPPY NEW YEAR

Best Wishes for a Happy and Prosperous 2012!

Thanks to all of you that helped make the 2011 Holiday Party & Auction successful. This allows us to keep the meeting fees low again for 2012. A special thanks to all of the donors, attendees, bidders and especially all of the volunteers that helped before, during and after the auction.

There is still time to support your chapter. Come early to the January meeting and bid in the silent auction. Items will be displayed on tables for bidding at 6:30 PM . Bobby Mann – DCGIA President

Here is the 2011 DCGAI.org Blog activity in Review:

Here’s an excerpt:

A New York City subway train holds 1,200 people. This blog was viewed about 7,500 times in 2011. If it were a NYC subway train, it would take about 6 trips to carry that many people.

Click here to see the complete report.

DCGIA Chapter 2011 Holiday Auction and Party

dcgiaorg — Sat, 17 Dec 2011 22:38:48 +0000

Here is the DCGIA Chapter 2011 Holiday Auction & Party Honor Roll and some of the Pictures taken during the event.

2011 Honor Roll of Donors

Bob Davis (RIP)
Bruce Gaber
Andy & Helen Serras-Herman
L. Courtland Lee
Laura McCloud
Lois Berger
Mason Kay
Richard Drucker Gemworld Int.
Josh Hall – Pala International
Weschler’s Auctioneers & Appraisers
Tim Roark Inc.
GIA Alumni Association
Adel Cramer
Mangan Jewelers
John & Alice Lees
Traci Solovey – Solovey Jewelers
Jeff & Sharon Allinson
RosaShearin
John Henderson
Sherlene & Rob Bradbury
Gail Brett Levine
Lisa Carp
Steve Clark
Anonymous
Bobby Mann & Theresa McGowan
Brenda Forman
Skinners Auctioneers & Appraisers
Tom Terpilak
Carolyn Chappell
Achikian Goldsmiths-Vienna VA
Pam Stair
Charlie & Melanie Marts
David Sanford
Denise & Dennis Nelson
Kusam & Kiran Malhotra
John & Dorothy Foellmer
Tim Morgan
Michele McMurtry
Donna Sibley & Tony Conway
Kathy Bonnell
Christine O C Miller
Martin & Colette Fuller

Bobby Mann - Going Going Gone!

Just some of the items up for grabs!

Thanks for supporting the Club!

The gang is all here, how about a bottle of wine?

And you let these go to a low bidder?

Thanks to you all for making the night memorable.