The Glitter & The Gold: Fashioning America’s Jewelry by Ulysses Grant Dietz
This book is an exploration of jewelry produced in Newark, New Jersey – America’s fine jewelry capital – from 1850 to 1950. The book contains never before published  documents concerning this little known jewelry empire.

If you made it to this lecture Mr. Dietz was most informative in sharing Newark as a Jewelry Mecca. If you missed it, buy the book or visit Newark and see what is left!

Mr. Dietz provided a PowerPoint presentation showing high end jewelry pieces and the Newark version created for mass consumption.  While the high end piece might be large in size the Newark piece was always on the order of a 1/4 scale version. The pictures show the high end piece and then the Newark version inset to give perspective between the two pieces. The high end piece selling at thousands of dollars, compared to the Newark version
often at $75 to $100.

Beyond Newark – Jewelry that Inspired America’s Manufacturers

Prior to the 1800s and the rise of Newark Jewelry Manufacturing, Jewelry was
for Aristocrats and Millionaires. Newark’s rise in jewelry manufacturing made
jewelry available to the middle class housewife.

German jewelry artisans from 1840 to 1920 immigrated to the US and settled in Newark, they became the dominant manufacturers. Most Newark manufacturers cranked out pieces for retailers. The first Newark manufacturer’s Hallmark does not appear until 1896.

In the 1900s Tiffany & Company made all their silver in a Newark manufacturing plant. T&C (along with many other high end retailers) purchased many low cost pieces of jewelry from other Newark manufacturers to supplement their high end designs.

The idea was that a $2K – $3K designer piece brings traffic into the store, but the hope was to have middle class buyers leave with a $200 or $300 item.

This Newark jewelry often had a Tiffany & Company hallmark, but would sometimes have only the Newark manufacturer’s hallmark or both hallmarks stamped. Skinner’s Auction Guide will often provide a good history on a piece, providing both the retail sellers and manufacturers pedigree. While the high end retailers would rather not mention it.

Newark jewelry was known for platinum, gold and colored stones during the 1900s, but  manufacturing came to an end in 1997, due to economic and over seas pressure.

Visit the Newark Museum Website: http://www.newarkmuseum.org 

The DCGIA Chapter thanks Mr. Dietz for a wonderful lecture that started our year with great attendance and enjoyment for everyone present.

Meeting Summary by Charlie Marts

Every DCGIA Mentee is partnered with a professional who makes themselves’ available to answer questions, lend support, and see you through your studies. DCGIA MENTEE PROFILE FORM You can meet, call or email, knowing help is available when you need it. The program encourages lifelong relationships, provides opportunities for continuing education and fosters networking with other gem and jewelry professionals.

Any of DCGIA’s learned professionals interested in becoming a Mentor and sharing their passion for the trade are welcome to volunteer. DCGIA Mentor Sign Up Form

HAPPY NEW YEAR

Best Wishes for a Happy and Prosperous 2012!

Thanks to all of you that helped make the 2011 Holiday Party & Auction successful. This allows us to keep the meeting fees low again for 2012. A special thanks to all of the donors, attendees, bidders and especially all of the volunteers that helped before, during and after the auction. 

There is still time to support your chapter. Come early to the January meeting and bid in the silent auction. Items will be displayed on tables for bidding at 6:30 PM . Bobby Mann – DCGIA President

Here is the 2011 DCGAI.org Blog activity in Review:

Here’s an excerpt:

A New York City subway train holds 1,200 people. This blog was viewed about 7,500 times in 2011. If it were a NYC subway train, it would take about 6 trips to carry that many people.

Click here to see the complete report.

2011 Honor Roll of Donors

1. Bob Davis (RIP)
2. Andy & Helen Serras-Herman
3. L. Courtland Lee
4. Laura McCloud
5. Lois Berger
6. Mason Kay
7. Richard Drucker Gemworld Int.
8. Josh Hall – Pala International
9. Weschler’s Auctioneers & Appraisers
10. Tim Roark Inc.
11. GIA Alumni Association
12. Adel Cramer
13. Mangan Jewelers
14. John & Alice Lees
15. Traci Solovey – Solovey Jewelers
16. Jeff & Sharon Allinson
17. RosaShearin
18. John Henderson
19. Sherlene & Rob Bradbury
20. Gail Brett Levine
21. Lisa Carp
22. Steve Clark
23. Anonymous
24. Bobby Mann & Theresa McGowan
25. Brenda Forman
26. Skinners Auctioneers & Appraisers
27. Tom Terpilak
28. Carolyn Chappell
29. Achikian Goldsmiths-Vienna VA
30. Pam Stair
31. Charlie & Melanie Marts
32. David Sanford
33. Denise & Dennis Nelson
34. Kusam & Kiran Malhotra
35. John & Dorothy Foellmer
36. Tim Morgan
37. Michele McMurtry
38. Donna Sibley & Tony Conway
39. Kathy Bonnell
40. Christine O C Miller
41. Martin & Colette Fuller

Bobby Mann - Going Going Gone!

Just some of the items up for grabs!

Thanks for supporting the Club!

The gang is all here, how about a bottle of wine?

And you let these go to a low bidder?

Thanks to you all for making the night memorable.

Gail Brett Levine

Gail provided an insightful discussion exploring the issues surrounding:
The way appraisals used to be
The way appraisals developed
Appraising according to Uniform Standards of Professional Appraisal Practice (USPAP)
and
Where appraising is going

Still doing one page appraisals?
Still have the disclaimer that you are not responsible?
You would not have learned how to appraise in this 1.5 Hour presentation, but you would
have identified current trends and requirements as well as being pointed to the right sources to get your appraisals right!

The National Association of Jewelry Appraisers is the only appraisal association in the U.S. that devotes itself solely to the appraisal of gems and jewelry.

Headed to Tucson for the Gem Show?

Don’t miss NAJA’s 37th ACE It Educational Conference, January 29-30, 2012. The perfect opportunity to increase your skills, learn new information and experience a peerless networking opportunity.

Auction Market Resource Whether you appraise, buy or sell, this is the comprehensive database for antique to contemporary jewelry sold at auction Over 22000 previously sold items inspected by gemologist appraisers. Suitable for comparables research for estate departments and fair market value appraisals. New Feature: over 370 hallmarks, trademarks and signatures available for verification of authenticity.

If you missed this meeting, you missed more than just FREE cake and coffee, you missed important information on the state of appraisals, and you missed receiving a multi-purpose screw driver set from Gail & NAJA.

Those of us who attended, can now fix almost anything, should the economy force us to a second job, and for that we THANK Gail Levine!

Meeting Summary by Charlie Marts

Pictures by Bobby Mann

It was a guided, historical tour complete with excellent photos to support his talk.

Chris shared that very few stones are completely untreated, that many are oiled! A stone may be untreated with heat but still may have oiling so it is important to examine for fissures reaching the surface.  One particular photo series showed a wonderful-looking stone with the oil present and a dramatically different-looking stone after the oil had been leached.

Most are familiar with the more common treatments of heat which include flux healing and beryllium and chromium diffusion.  He also cautioned against assuming that the presence of needles is proof of “no heat”  Not true! The needles melt at 1300C.  The stone may still have had low heat treatment.  Heating of stones began in the 1970’s and continues to day in various forms and is done to improve colour.  The 1980’s brought flux-assisted heating and this was to improve clarity and stability.

2003 began the latest gemological and ethical challenges with the advent of the glass filled and “composite” stones.  Some stones are simply glass-filled while others are composed of ruby gravel and fused together with glass and then fashioned into stones.  These particular stones have inherent durability problems and require very special care when setting, cleaning and with daily use.

Chris believes that all of this notwithstanding, these stones do have a place in the market as long as FULL disclosure takes place. For more information on these stones, visit http://www.aglgemlab.com/

Meeting Summary by Sherlene Y. Bradbury, G.G. Senior Member NAJA
Pictures by Bobby Mann, G.G.

Helens Serras-Herman

Helen published an article about the 2011 GIA Symposium in the Rock & Gem Magazine,  which is featured in the September issue. Additionally, she has an article about the Pala Tourmaline Mines due out, in an upcoming Rock & Gem Magazine issue. Visit:   Rock and Gem Magazine

Additional 2011 GIA Symposium details can still be found on the web site GIA Symposium

Other great articles from Helen Serras-Herman in Rock & Gem Magazine can be found in:
the July Issue: Central Arizona Gold Mine tours, museums and the Superstition Mountains
the August Issue:   Pricing Your Gem Artwork, 20 costs to consider
Visit:   Rock and Gem Magazine

Over the years, Rock&Gem magazine has published a mother lode of information and articles covering virtually every facet of the rockhounding hobby. Looking for information? This is a resource you need to subscribe to. Also visit:  Bob’s Rock Shop

Helen says the San Diego Natural History Museum’s “All that Glitters” was a fabulous exhibit, which  runs through April 8, 2012, featuring mineral specimens, jewelry and objects d’art, all marvelously displayed. The museum is located in Balboa Park, in San Diego. For hours, tickets and more information visit their website at San Diego Natural History Museum

Tourmalines from the Pala pegmatite district

Tourmalines from the Pala pegmatite district 2

The Pala Tourmaline Mines in Southern California are part of America’s history and are still very active today, having produced some incredible mineral specimens that take center stage at Natural History Museums across the country. Helen shared the fee-dig
day Andy & Helen spent at one of the mines, and a group field trip organized by the 2011 GIA Symposium visiting 3 underground mines.

Digging in the muck pile at the Oceanview Mine

Findings from the Fee-Dig

Kunzite from the Oceanview Mine

The above Kunzite is an example of the gem quality stones provided by the Pala District mines.

Helen provided an overview of the 2011 GIA Symposium, titled Advancing the Science and Business of Gems, which was carried out in 3 forums. The two main overlapping lecture tracks: the Research track and the Business track, and the Poster Session.

The Research session covered topics on Diamond Identification, exploration and development of new gem deposits, testing of lead-glass treated rubies and beryllium-treated Sapphires, identification of natural and treated Nephrite from China, natural color Tanzanite detection, Pearl Identification, and new technologies and instrumentation.

The Business session covered topics of “Where is Luxury in this Brave new World?” Presentations were about the luxury markets and how these companies have succeeded, where jeweler Amit Dhamani, CEO of Dhamani Jewels stated that “luxury is a symbol of indulgence”.  Additional topics were the “Future of Gems and Gems of the Future” and “Everything Old is New Again”.

The Poster Session, was held on two floors, 63 researches were printed out and posted on large panel displays (44.5 “h X 91” w). The Poster session was open for viewing at all times during the Symposium, and the authors were present at specific times and during breaks between the lecture presentations. Helen had a Poster Presentation titled “Lectures- An Inspirational Way for Artists to Communicate”.

Helen's Poster Session

Additional 2011 GIA Symposium details can still be found on the web site GIA Symposium

We Thank Helen for sharing her adventures with us.

Meeting Summary: Charlie Marts

Pictures provided by: Helen Serras-Herman

Denise shared many magnificent master pieces as she provided a guided tour through wonderful pictures of castles, Precious and Semi-Precious gems in jewelry, altars, and other items.

Schönbrunn Palace together with its ancillary buildings and extensive park is by virtue of its long and colourful history one of the most important monuments in Austria.

Schoenbrunn Castle in Vienna with red and white flowers;

Schoenbrunn Castle

The Castle Eltz is situated in the green hills of the Eifel Region a paradise for hikers and nature lovers. Besides finding historical treasures one can spend days hiking or cycling through many marked hiking and biking trails.

Castle Eltz

Ivory carving from Castle Eltz in Germany;

Ivory from Castle Eltz

Jasper Beaker from the Munich Schatzkammer;

Jasper Beaker

Rheinisches Landesmuseum was originally founded by a Prussian prince in 1820 to display antiquities, reopened in 2003 it contains a fascinating array of religious treasures, along with many other exhibits on the Rhineland region.

Roman Musaic from Trier, Germany;

Roman Musaic

From the Munich Treasury – The Wittelsbachs’ Treasury, founded in 1565 by Duke Albrecht V, is one of the most important of its kind in Europe. The collection covers the late Graeco-Roman period and the Middle Ages, the late Gothic and Renaissance periods, with the statuette of St. George, created between 1586 and 1597, and the baroque and neoclassical eras. The Treasury contains over 1,250 works of art. They include such unique items as the insignia of the Kings and Queens of Bavaria, their jewels and orders, masterpieces of the goldsmith’s art and objects made from rock crystal, precious stones and ivory.

Gemstone and Amber Box;

Gemstone and Amber Box

The Crown of an English Queen (Bohemian or Palatine Crown) was recorded in England in a list of jewels drawn up in 1399. It most likely belonged to King Edward III or Anne of Bohemia, the wife of King Richard II, who was deposed that year by Henry IV. Henry’s daughter, Princess Blanche, married the Palatine Elector Ludwig III in 1402 and the crown passed to the Palatine Treasury in Heidelberg as part of her dowry. In 1782 it was transferred to the Munich Treasury along with other jewels belonging to the Palatine branch of the Wittelsbach family. This is the oldest surviving crown of England.

Crown;

Crown

St. George the Dragon-slayer;

St. George the Dragon Slayer

The World of the Habsburgs covered six centuries of rule, it lasted more than 630 years from the late 13th century to the end of the First World War in 1918.

Hapsburg Eagle;

Hapsburg Eagle

In 1985 the Middleham Jewel was found in the ground of the castle by a man who was using a Metal Detector. The Middleham Jewel is a mid-15th century 68 gram gold pendant with a 10 ct. Blue Sapphire. One side of the diamond shaped pendant is engraved with a representation of the Trinity and the other with a Latin inscription indicating that the pendant is a charm against epilepsy. The sapphire may represent heaven. It was acquired by the Yorkshire Museum in York for £2.5 million.

Middleham Jewel from Yorkshire, England;

Middleham Jewel

We Thank Denise for sharing her adventure with us.

Meeting Summary: Charlie Marts

Pictures provided by: Denise Nelson

Nicolas Luchsinger

Mr. Luchsinger’s presentation provided an insightful and fascinating look at Van Cleef & Arpels. Van Cleef & Arpels (VCA) is a family love story between Alfred & Estelle. Founded in 1906 by Alfred Van Cleef and his brothers-in-law Charles and Julien Arpels on 22 Place Vendome in Paris, the firm has since expanded across the globe and become known for creative design, top-quality materials, and iconic trademarks.

Alfred Van Cleef & Estelle Arpels

Van Cleef and Arpels made numerous contributions to the history of jewelry design, in 1930, a new type of accessory: the minaudière. The fore-runner of the ladies compact. The minaudière is a type of vanity case. Constructed from gold or silver, it takes the form of a box.

When opened, it reveals various lady-like essentials: a comb, a case for lipstick, a lighter, small compartments for cigarettes, change, and powder.

The inspiration for the design came from a friend and client: Frances Gould, wife of American railroader Jay Gould. Gould apparently rushed to a meeting with Charles Arpels, tossing her necessities into a tin Lucky Strike cigarette case. Arpels took the idea and made it his own.

He named it for his wife. The French verb minauder means, roughly, to simper or smile coyly. Madame Van Cleef’s simpering was famous. The minaudière was wildly popular for decades. Women carried them in custom-made, fabric pouches.

Another major contribution was the introduction, in 1935, of a technique of gemstone setting called invisible setting (serti invisible). The setting is named for its appearance. When gems are invisibly set, it appears as if nothing is holding them in place: no prongs, bars, or bezels. One is simply presented with a collection of continuous, geometric gems. As a matter of fact, the gemstones are secured on their undersides by a metal grid into which each stone is fitted and held in places by small grooves. Setting gemstones in this way allowed for a new aesthetic in jewelry design. Many of VCA’s signature pieces feature this technique.

From 1909 to 1939, Van Cleef & Arpels prospered and opened boutiques in holiday resorts such asDeauville, Le Touquet, Nice and Monte-Carlo.

Progressively, the second generation joined the business. In 1942, the Arpels family emigrated toAmerica and opened their first boutique inNew York, on5th Avenue.

VCA has created impressive pieces in every design period throughout the twentieth century.

Art Deco, Asian & Egyptian Influences

Birds of a Feather ....

In the 1940’s, for instance, it created widely-copied, charming ballerina brooches.

Van Cleef & Arpels has been associated with events that have marked the lives of princely, royal and imperial families around the world, like that of His Royal Highness Don Antonio of Orléans and Grand Duke Dmitri in the 1920s, Princess de Faucigny Lucinge, Baron Thyssen, the Duchess of Windsor and the Duke of Westminster in the 1930s, Queen Nazli and King Farouk of Egypt, Baron James de Rothschild, Countesses de Rohan Chabot and d’Harcourt, the Maharani of Baroda, Queen Sirikit of Thailand in the 1950s, and then, in the following decades, Baron Guy de Rothschild, the Queen of Spain, the Princess of Wales, Prince Rainier and Princess Grace of Monaco, Shaw of Iran, etc.

IRAN Coronation 1967Duchess of Windsor

Numerous actresses have also favored Van Cleef & Arpels jewels. Examples of faithful clients include Madeleine Carroll, Michèle Morgan, Marlene Dietrich, Ava Gardner, Audrey Hepburn, Sophia Loren, Elizabeth Taylor, Claudia Cardinale, Romy Schneider, Brigitte Bardot, as well as Florence Jay Gould, Barbara Hutton and Jacqueline Kennedy.

All VCA pieces are Numbered and documented in VCA Archives.

Visit Van Cleef & Arpels web page.

We thank Mr. Nicolas Luchsinger once again for sharing his knowledge, time and the above slides & pictures with us, as we appreciate the opportunity to learn from experts in the trade.

Meeting Recap – Charlie Marts

Picture of Speaker and Members – Melanie Marts