Treatments and Synthetics: A Visual Review by John Koivula

johnk1 John Koivula an Analytical Microscopist at the Gemological Institute of America shared a visual review of slides identifying common features for synthetic and treated rubies, sapphires, emeralds, diamonds, chrysoberyl, opal, spinel, quartz, jade, and corundum.

The majority of characteristics seen in treated and synthetic gemstones can be seen with the standard gemological microscope used by most graduate gemologists and appraisers.

What is needed to identify treated and synthetic gemstones?

  1. A well trained and educated mind.
  2. Keeping an open mind to consider all possibilities.
  3. It also helps if you have a network of people you can consult with, which is what the GIA Alumni Chapters provide locally, and GIA GGs provide globally.
  4. Know every manufactured imitation.
  5. Know every type of synthetic gem material.
  6. Know every method of treatment

True synthetics have been produced and sold into the gem trade over a 100 years, ever since the introduction and fraudulent sale of so-called Geneva rubies in the 1880s, and with the countless numbers of treated stones, it never hurts to reexamine the main identifying characteristics of some of the most important of these materials.

johngang

GIA web pages provide resources via online articles and past Gems & Gemology Magazine articles covering many treatments and synthetics.

An introduction to synthetic gemstones; http://www.gia.edu/gem-synthetic

DCGIA thanks John Koivula for sharing his industry knowledge with us and we look forward to his future offerings in print and on-line.

johndcgia

Summary by Charles Marts

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The Magic of Alexandrite by Evan Caplan

Evan Caplan1Los Angeles gem dealer with a specialty for rare gemstones, Evan Caplan shared his passion for Alexandrite with the DCGIA Members. Alexandrite one of the birthstones for June, is a very rare color-change variety of the mineral chrysoberyl. Green in daylight and Red in artificial light, color-changing Alexandrite is nature’s magic trick.

Alexandrite was named after its discovery in the Russian Ural Mountains in 1830 on the twelfth birthday of the Russian Crown Prince Alexander II, originally identified by the Finnish mineralogist Nils Gustaf Nordenskiöld.

Ordinary Chrysoberyl is yellowish-green and transparent to translucent. The three main varieties of Chrysoberyl are ordinary yellow-to-green Chrysoberyl, cat’s eye or Cymophane, and Alexandrite.

MINERAL: Chrysoberyl  –  CHEMISTRY: Be Al2 O4
COLOR: Bluish green in daylight, purplish red in incandescent light
REFRACTIVE INDEX: 1.746 to 1.755
BIREFRINGENCE: 0.008 to 0.010
SPECIFIC GRAVITY: 3.73
MOHS HARDNESS: 8.5

Assess fine Alexandrite by the extent of the color change and clarity it displays and by the quality of the red and green hues shown under different lighting conditions. Alexandrite should have a high level of transparency, a good appearance, and no eye-visible imperfections, gem-quality Alexandrite shows an attractive green or blue-green under sunlight, distinctly changing to a purplish red under incandescent light. Less-desirable stones may have daylight colors of yellowish or brownish-green and incandescent colors of brownish-red.

Cymophane is popularly known as “cat’s eye”. Chatoyancy arises from the fibrous inclusions or cavities within Chrysoberyl, cut as a cabochon, a silky band of light extends across the surface of the stone. Cats eye seen in Alexandrite is very rare, a real collector’s gemstone.

Fine-quality Alexandrite (extremely rare) has a green to bluish-green color in daylight, changing to a red to purplish-red color in incandescent light. Go to GIA for a great picture of Alexandrite.

Brown component in Alexandrite is the kiss of death as it greatly reduces the value of the gemstone. Sometimes you see a change from Brown to Browner – that is a color change you do not want to see. Go to GIA for a great picture of Good and Bad Quality Alexandrite.

Gem labs report color, but color classifications vary widely from lab to lab and can be disadvantageous to the perceived value. Too often consumers are buying the paper rather than the stone, so dealers are held hostage by the lab reports. Sending a gemstone to multiple gem labs will often leave you wondering what color is it?

So what do some people do? Throw out the reports that provided inferior color descriptions? Since each lab has their own specification for viewing and light source use, none share the actual specifications being used. While they all say a standard is necessary and many different associations have working groups that are trying to establish standards, no real movement towards a common Alexandrite specification has been made.

Alexandrite is found in the Russian Urals, Brazil, Sri Lanka, India and East Africa, although many mines are no longer producing, and the size of rough is smaller than in the past. With 3 out of a 1,000 gemstones of fine gem quality coming out of the Irissa mine in India. Most of the current material contains many inclusions, with limited production of fine gem quality material.

Evan shared photos and stories of many of his gemstone finds from Russia, Brazil, Tanzania and Sri Lanka. As well as information on the Minas Gerais mines in Brazil.
Find stones on the surface as they do not dig pits. Current mining is going through the trailings left from earlier excavation, which tends to provide mostly smaller carat stones.
Russian reputation although it has nice color change is typically not fine gem quality as it is highly occluded. Sri Lanka Alexandrite from the murisa mines. Tanzinia also has some great material. Brazil is where the best material has originated from in recent times.

Alexandrite of over 5 carats with a beautiful green and red color is extremely rare and valuable. Most fashioned Alexandrite is small, weighing less than one carat. Larger sizes and better qualities rise in price dramatically.

Quality cut gemstones seldom come from India & Africa, but Brazil often provides the best cut stones since they are sent to Hong Kong for cutting prior to sale.

Alexandrite is typically untreated, but imitation stones do exist. Occasionally, Alexandrite may be oiled, but this is not very common, and oil is likely left over from the polishing process. Many Alexandrites are synthetic (lab-grown) and others may be natural ‘simulated’ gemstones, such as color change garnet, sapphire or spinel. Many lab-grown (synthetic) alexandrite is actually corundum (ruby/sapphire) that has been laced or infused with either chromium or vanadium to provide the color. It is very expensive to create synthetic alexandrite, so even lab-grown stones can be very costly. Synthetic alexandrite has been available on the market since the 1960s.

Inclusions may be veils, needles and other natural crystal inclusions, better seen under magnification. Look for tiny crystals that look like black spots in the interior of the gem, veil like silky threads throughout a the whole or portion of the gem, or even what may look like tiny elongated tubes.

kusamevan

Kusam Malhotra – President DCGIA with Evan Caplan

DCGIA thanks Evan for sharing both his knowledge and passion for Alexandrite with us!

Summary by Charles Marts

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Kimberly Process Review by Patricia Syvrud

Pat SyvrudwdcThe DCGIA chapter members heard from Patricia Syvrud, Executive Director of the World Diamond Council.

The diamond industry is very unique and special, but it’s not alone in how consumers focus on its products. There are plenty other industries such as textiles which have a found a way to deal with responsible labor and sourcing issues. Responsible sourcing in the gem and jewelry trade, is important to ensure consumer RESPECT for our industry. The extensive work of the Kimberley Process (KP) provides an international process that governs the trade in rough diamonds.

The KP is called a Tri-partite organization, meaning it has three different stakeholders which work together to make it work. Countries which are voting members, Non-Voting members are Non-Government Organizations (NGO’s) such as Partnership Africa Canada, industry.

Negotiations began in 2000, implementation began in 2003 – currently, KP Chair is UAE, Vice Chair is Australia, who will be Chair in 2017. Currently The KP has 54 participants, representing 81 countries, with the European Union and its Member States counting as a single participant. KP members account for approximately 99.8% of the global production of rough diamonds.  These are the members with voting privileges.

The other two legs of the tri-partite construct of the KP are made up of Observers, which means we participate in all work, tasks and meetings of the KP, can voice our opinions and add our expertise, but don’t have actual voting privileges in the KP.

The first observer group is the Civil Society Coalition (CSC), or group of NGO’s headed by an org called Partnership Africa Canada. Other members of the CSC include Green Advocates out of Liberia, the Network Movement for Justice and Development in Sierra Leone, the Center for Natural Resource Governance out of Zimbabwe and other similar organizations based in Cameroon, Guinea, and the DRC.

The second observer group is industry as represented by the WDC, the African Diamond Producers Association and Diamond Development Initiative also participate as observers.

For the member Country Participants, each country passes legislation to implement the minimum standards of the KP, but each country can legislate as they deem fit. Consequently, some countries completely control the KP through governmental channels, while other countries basically ‘outsource’ KP authority, (like the US, I’ll go more into that later), or share responsibilities like the Antwerp World Diamond Center, a quasi-governmental public/private entity that handles all KP imports and exports as well as supporting the diamond industry in Belgium.

Each country is Required to create a government validated KP Certificate which is used on any export (or re-export) of a parcel of rough diamonds.

Minimum requirement for KP certificates: origin, weight, value, exporter, importer, tamper-resistant features. Confirmation of good receipt by ultimate consignee/vendor.
Internal controls within the country printing the certificate.

The KP is specific to rough diamonds, participating member countries use the Kimberley Process to control and monitor the trade of rough diamonds. Participants certify the $30 billion annual international rough diamond trade by creating a documentary record for rough diamonds from mine to cutting and polishing. Rough diamonds must be shipped in sealed containers and exported with a Kimberley Process Certificate which certifies that the diamonds are conflict free.

KP is a voluntary system of industry self-regulation, and provides for a record system underpinned through verification by independent auditors of individual companies
and supported by internal penalties set by the industry. This helps to facilitate the full trace-ability of rough diamonds by government authorities. Participants also provide annual reports of official production, import and export data, shared and available to be audited by all participating members.

The World Diamond Council (WDC) was established to represent the diamond industry at the Kimberley Process. WDC President is Andrey Polakov, from ALROSA and Vice President is Stephane Fischler from AWDC. The WDC has committed to attending every review visit or mission. WDC members volunteer their time and cover their own costs to go on these visits which typically last for about a week.

KP in the United States is not managed as a governmental body, but is outsourced to an independent KP ‘Authority’. The US KP Authority is a not for profit trade association formed for the purpose of administering and controlling the usage of U.S. Kimberley Process certificates for the export of rough diamonds from the U.S.  The US KP Authority website includes resources – a FREE Retailer Poster , as well as an Overview Presentation .

What do Industry suppliers, Vendors and jewelers need to do?

The extension of the KPCS regime into the cut and polished diamond trade is through WDC’s “System of Warranties” specifically recognized by the KPCS. This Warranty allows retailers to answer consumer inquiries about whether the diamonds are “conflict free”. It is a voluntary system of industry self-regulation, the System of Warranties requires all buyers and sellers of rough diamonds, polished diamonds and jewelry containing diamonds to make the following affirmative statement on all invoices:

Legal Express Warranty from seller to buyer (not to the end user) the polished diamonds supplied (loose or set in jewelry) were traded in a manner that is consistent with the KP.

Every member of the supply chain must realize that the story doesn’t end when a rough diamond, accompanied by a Kimberley Process Certificate, is transformed to a cut and polished diamond. It is very important that everybody in the industry understands the responsibility of supporting the Kimberley Process, compliance and corporate social responsibility provided by this kind of chain of warranties. We should look at the chain of warranty as a solid ally of the Kimberley Process. The WDC is focusing resources this year to study and strengthen the System of Warranties, so stay tuned.

Look for the KP Warranty! As a retailer or jewelry designer, every time you purchase a diamond, A KP Warranty statement should be on the invoice.

Ask for it! If you don’t see it, you need to ask for it. To ensure that consumers continue to purchase our products, we need to ensure our suppliers are doing the right thing.

Consider your suppliers! If a supplier is unable or unwilling to supply you with the KP Warranty Statement, then you should STOP doing business with them.
If the supplier says, “How can I supply it? My suppliers don’t provide it with THEIR invoices!”. Tell them THEY need to get a new supplier!

This is not a trend, this is the way the industry is moving in order to enhance the reputation of our industry to make it ethical, responsible and therefore desirable.

DCGIA thanks Patricia Syvrud for sharing with us!

Summary by Charles Marts – Secretary DCGIA

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In Memory of Frederick N. Ward GG (GIA)

Fred 2RIP – July 16, 1935 – July 19, 2016    

Fred was a loyal DCGIA member, prolific photographer, author and great friend to us all!

Some of you may remember Fred as a world-renowned photographer, author, gem dealer, gemologist and a past president of DCGIA. Fred shared his books, passion and knowledge with our members. DCGIA knew Fred for his love of gems and his extraordinary ability to capture beauty with his camera wherever he went. Fred was a GIA Graduate Gemologist earning his diploma in 1990 and became a fixture at DCGIA monthly meetings. Fred authored nine books: Diamonds (also in Russian), Emeralds, Jade, Opals, Pearls, Phenomenal Gems, Rubies and Sapphires, and Gem Care.

Here is a little happy picture of him from a few years ago, at the Jade Festival at Big Sur.

2003 at the Jade Festival at Big Sur, Ca. with DCGIA Member Denise Nelson

Fred Ward is survived by his wife of 58 years Charlotte, their beloved children Kimberly Litle (Tom Litle), Christopher Ward, Lolly Ward (Nathan Kornelis), and David Ward, four grandchildren, and his sister Lynn Erckmann (Jim Erckmann).

We think that there may be a memorial “show” of some sort through the Malibu Arts Commission. If so, the family will use it as a local celebration of Fred’s life and work. Fred wanted his body to go to science, particularly Alzheimer’s research, so the family will not hold a traditional ceremony. Frederick N Ward Obiiuary

Chapter condolences go out to his family and friends. Fred will be missed but not forgotten, as he lives on through his family, friends, books and photographs.

Cards and Flowers can be sent to: Charlotte Ward, 2575 Barrymore Dr. Malibu, CA 90265

In lieu of flowers, feel free to make a contribution to Alzheimer’s research the link will take you to Fred Ward’s Tribute page.

For a blast from the past in July 2006, Fred gave DCGIA Members the history of rubies and sapphires as they were used by the Greeks, Romans and Indian Moghuls.

Respectfully,

Charles Marts – Secretary DCGIA

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Precious Heirlooms by Denise Nelson GG (GIA)

DenisePrecious Heirlooms – A voice from the past & possibly into the future…

Denise took us on a walk through history both personal and global as she melded her gemology and genealogy back grounds into a wonderful discussion of what makes an heirloom.

Searching for answers – Jewelry is not merely adornment, it is family history, emotional attachments and memories. Each ring, pendant, bracelet or earring holds memories, that can help tell the jewelry’s story, the manufacturing techniques, fashion trends and styles all have a reference to a time, place and state of mind.

The jewelry of Real People always have a story worth being remembered, appreciated, and handed down to future heirs. Documentation is important in order to know; Who it belonged to? Who owns it now? Why was it given? Birth – Engagement – Wedding – Graduation – Birthday

Provenance!

Original boxes are important as they detail the manufacturer and date, original receipts provide price, while hand written notes to the recipient tell a story. Take the time to write a note giving details for each piece of your precious jewelry, the note provides context and may very well make the jewelry more cherished by your heirs.

Cultural Background has a deep impact on the type of jewelry imparted to family members. It tells the century, cultural influences, family status, country and possibly the religion. Whether beads, pearls, silver, gold, turquoise or other materials, it chronicles the available metals and tools used by the society making the jewelry. The cut of a gemstone often provides insight into the age, as more complex facets became capable relatively recently.

Jewelry embraces diversity, the tasks, hobbies and interests of the owner. Were they from a farming or nomadic society? Hunters or Gatherers? Is it a Talisman for healing or warding against evil?

Birthstones are often the first gemstones to find their way into a family collection, promising Health, love, wisdom or hope to the wearer.

DCGIA Chapter members thank Denise for sharing with us!

Summary by Charles Marts – Secretary DCGIA

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Tiny Jewel Box DC Job Posting

Master Goldsmith wanted for fabrication and repair of high-end, fine jewelry including, but not limited to: rings, earrings, bracelets, pendants, and brooches. Small shop environment with a manager and three other jewelers including this position. Production environment with a constant flow of custom design and repair work.

POSITION REQUIREMENTS:
  Minimum 7 years of continuous experience at the bench
  Must be adept at torch soldering/fusing and laser welding silver/gold/platinum
  Must be able to set both diamonds and precious gems into silver/gold/platinum in a variety of setting styles (ex: bead, channel, flush, bezel, gypsy, pave)
  Must have knowledge of vintage jewelry making techniques and repair
  Must be able to work using a microscope
  Must have the basic ability to communicate with other store associates
  Must be willing to maintain condition of workshop tools by cleaning and performing regular maintenance on necessary equipment
  Must be able to read and follow instructions
  Must be able to sit at a jeweler’s bench for extended periods of time
  Must have a strong work ethic and a commitment to quality
  Wax carving experience a plus
  Casting experience a plus
  CAD/CAM experience a plus

Contact: Leslie Ribakow 301-654-9879 (Direct)  301-657-8876 (Fax) or by EMail at: lribakow@arthurdiamond.com

Master Goldsmith Job Description

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Natural vs. Enhanced Lapidary Gem Materials by Helen Serras-Herman

DCGIA President – Kusam Malhotra & Helen Serras-Herman

DCGIA President – Kusam Malhotra & Helen Serras-Herman

Helen compared natural gem materials against the simulants available in today’s market. She provided slides of Sonora Chrysocolla, Turquoise, Lapis, Azurite with Malachite, and natural drusy gemstones alongside simulants made to imitate these natural materials.

The term “simulants” refers to natural or enhanced materials that simulate another natural gemstone. Simulants and imitation materials are not new, in both ancient Egyptian and Roman times, lesser materials were used to imitate turquoise, and green glass was used to imitate emeralds.

 

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There are many materials on the market being made or enhanced to look like some other natural material, especially materials that are rare, expensive or in high fashion demand. These simulants, or “look-a-likes”, provide an inexpensive alternative to the natural gems, and many of them are beautiful and durable enough to be used in jewelry designs.

Simulants may be made using the identical natural material, a cheaper imitation material or a man-made material, and generally fall into the following categories:

Stabilized Material – Lower quality natural material is mixed with resin in order to harden the stone, so it survives the cutting and polishing process, without falling apart. Stabilization may also deepen the color. Stabilization requires high pressure to allow the resin to be absorbed into the rock permanently. Visit Colbaugh Processing Inc.

Blocks by Colbaugh Processing

Blocks by Colbaugh Processing

Treated Material – When natural material is mixed with resin and dyes are added, then the material is referred to as “treated” instead of “stabilized”.

Compressed Material – Small nuggets of the natural quality material are compressed with resin into blocks. The outline of each natural nugget is still visible.

Natural Azurite-Malachite carved by HSH

Natural Azurite-Malachite carved by HSH

Azurite-Malachite Compressed Blocks

Azurite-Malachite Compressed Blocks

Reconstituted Material – Natural material, usually of low quality, is crushed into powder, mixed with resin, often along with dyes, then poured and molded into blocks. The final block product is easy to slab and shape into cabochons. Reconstituted blocks of low grade natural materials- turquoise, coral, azurite and others, offer an inexpensive option for lapidary materials.

Man-Made Material – Plastic resin imitation blocks dyed in various ways to imitate many natural gemstone materials are also available on the market. There is no natural material present, so they are inexpensive options for natural lapidary materials.

Natural Sonora chrysocolla (left x2) beside Simulant (right x2)

Natural Sonora chrysocolla (left x2) beside Simulant (right x2) – cabs cut by Keith Horst

Drusy Gem Materials

Natural – Drusy Gem Materials

With all these types of materials available, visual identification is neither accurate nor reliable. Always ask the vendor about the materials used, and get the answer in writing. Always buy from a reputable vendor that will stand behind their products, and are able to supply information on the identity and source of the material.

Drusy Quartz Dyed

Dyed Drusy Quartz – cabs cut by Keith Horst

Dealers should always disclose treatments and enhancements. While the original wholesaler or lapidary may have disclosed this information, somewhere along the process from rough to cut, from design to sale (especially online) disclosure information gets blurred or lost.

The importance of disclosure, besides honesty and ethics, is in knowing how to take care of the finished stones, how well will they wear once set into jewelry, will they fade in the sunlight, dissolve in chlorine, will they survive ultrasonic cleaners or heat from the jeweler’s torch.

Helen Serras-Herman is an acclaimed gem sculptor with over 33 years of experience in unique gem sculpture and jewelry art. Her award-winning artwork has been exhibited world-wide and published in over 170 trade magazines and books. See her work at www.gemartcenter.com.

DCGIA Members thank Helen for sharing her knowledge and experiences with us.

Summary – Charles Marts
Pictures – Helen Serras-Herman

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World Diamond Council Seeking Part-Time Administrative Assistant

wdcAdministrative and Kimberley Process Support Specialist

  • 2 Days a week, must be flexible.
  • Experience in Microsoft Excel and Word required. 
  • Work from home!

Contact Patricia Syvrud, WDC Executive Director for detailed job description and salary:

Patricia.Syvrud@WorldDiamondCouncil.org

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Part/Full time Sales/Administrative position at estate jewelry store in downtown Washington DC

Computer, website, online sales, and polishing experience helpful and needed.
Sales/computer experience helpful.
Salary negotiable.

2 blocks from Farragut North red line metro.

Contact Brian Diener
Diener Jewelers
1133 19th St NW
Washington DC 20036
202-872-1710
http://www.dienerjewelers.com
Email: brian@dienerjewelers.com

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Gem Gossip: Endless talk of all things Sparkly – Danielle Miele

DCGIA Danielle Miele & Mom

Danielle Miele with her support staff – MOM!

The DCGIA Chapter Members heard from Gem Gossip blogger Danielle Miele. A wonderful and informative talk that chronicled the progression of Danielle’s career from student to full time and award winning jewelry blogger.

With a full house of enthusiastic Gem Gossip fans, it was a fun young crowd with plenty of discussions afterwards and at the after-talk dinner too.

 

Learn more about Danielle’s passion for all things sparkly at her blog Gem Gossip and on her Gem Gossip Facebook page.

DCGIA thanks Danielle and her MOM for sharing with us!

Summary by Charles Marts – Secretary DCGIA

Pictures by Charles Marts & Denise Nelson

 

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